Posted on

Classic couture and definitive design: The iconic bracelet you can’t take off, and wouldn’t want to

While I’m working to build a readership for the Sparkle On blog, I’ll remind you periodically about our mission statement, so that for anyone who happens to randomly stop by and peek at an article, they will understand why I make reference to details, or provide extensive descriptions of jewelry features that would be obvious to anyone who glanced at a photo. So, here is the reminder: The Sparkle On blog is written specifically for readers who may be new to jewelry, and/or who may be blind or visually impaired. I’ve said this before but it bears repetition – a picture may be worth a thousand words, but not for someone with vision loss. The purpose of the extensive descriptions is to enable readers to feel confident about making a jewelry purchase, which can be intimidating for anyone, but to walk into a retail jewelry store to buy a gift without the ability to clearly see what’s in the velvet-lined, glass display cases can be a little nerve-wracking. As a consequence of low vision, along with not feeling particularly knowledgeable about jewelry terminology, some people may not feel the least bit comfortable buying an expensive jewelry item either online or at retail. If these articles can be of some assistance as you venture forth to choose a pretty bauble for yourself or someone you love, then the goal is achieved.

With that in mind, today I’m going to describe another of the iconic pieces of jewelry that has become a category unto itself. Have you ever heard of the Cartier “Love” bracelet? Certainly, you’ve heard of the legendary design house of Cartier, which you probably already associate with exquisite, luxury offerings. Yes, you are correct. That Cartier.

The famous love bracelet is a piece of jewelry designed in 1969 by Aldo Cipullo for Cartier. It is a flat bangle bracelet studded with screws. Yes, exactly like the screws in your toolbox, except not at all. The bracelet was originally crafted of 18k yellow gold, although it was soon offered in 18k rose gold, 18k white gold, and also in platinum. Later variations included diamonds studded throughout the bracelet, and more recently, pave diamonds. As is typical with popular pieces of jewelry that become iconic, symbolic of luxury, or in this case, symbolic of an unbreakable commitment of love, it is almost immediately copied. The famous Cartier love bracelet has been mimicked by low-end jewelry brands and counterfeiters alike.

The novelty of the love bracelet is the locking mechanism, which requires a screwdriver to unfasten, and once slipped onto the wrist, the screwdriver is used to lock the bracelet on so that it cannot be removed without said screwdriver. The screwdriver itself has also been made into a necklace, with the idea that the bracelet wearer is “locked,” or committed to the wearer of the screwdriver “key,” symbolizing an unbreakable bond. Pretty romantic, no?

As the design of the original love bracelet was copied and changed just enough to avoid violating the original trademark, it became known by other names, such as the “nailshead bracelet,” or the “screwhead bracelet.” If your love bracelet does not have the Cartier hallmark, along with the gold fineness stamp, does not have the weight or the flawless execution of all parts and design elements, or come with a certificate of authenticity in an actual
Cartier box, yours is likely a counterfeit, or low-end copy. If you have enough eyesight to magnify a photo, there are some good pictures online comparing the real thing to the fakes. Also, when written in the font designed for the bracelet, the word love appears with a vertical line through the letter “o,” which is a nod to the appearance of a screw. The original bracelets were sold for over $6,000 back in the 1970’s, and it has retained its value. If you want one, I’d go directly to a Cartier boutique to ensure you are getting the real deal. If you have inherited one, or purchased one at auction, there are a number of ways it can be authenticated, and I’d start by bringing it to a Cartier salon.

If you are fortunate enough to be presented with one of the iconic Cartier Love bracelets, then you are abundantly blessed, indeed, as you not only have a beautiful piece of jewelry to wear, but also a devoted admirer presenting it. No one drops that kind of coin on a bracelet that is literally locked onto the wrist unless they really like you a lot. Lucky you! Sparkle on!

Laura