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Classic couture and definitive designs: The line bracelet

Whether we’re talking about the famous necklace dropped to the bottom of the sea by a character in the film Titanic, the engagement ring presented to a soon-to-be royal princess, a bauble in a blue box that came from that place where Audrey Hepburn had breakfast, or the singular design innovation for which a jewelry brand became a household word, there are certain pieces of jewelry that are instantly recognizable. One of the ongoing features of the Sparkle On blog I plan to share are descriptions of iconic jewelry designs that have become synonymous with a style, brand, or image, so that you can learn to identify the attributes that characterize a classic piece of jewelry. While most of us do not live the lifestyle of a character in the old TV drama Dynasty, these are the pieces that launched a thousand knock-offs. You may not aspire to own that museum timepiece, or, drat it all, you’ve long since forgotten where you hid the darn key to the family jewelry vault, but you may aspire to get the look for less. Here, I’ll tell you the story, or history, behind some of the most memorable jewelry designs, and how you can capture the essence of the original without the price tag. or, where to get the real thing if money is no object.

What leaps to mind first and foremost in this category is the diamond tennis bracelet.

The classic design that we associate with the name “tennis bracelet ” has been around since the 1920’s. Originally called a line bracelet, it only became known as a tennis bracelet in the 1970’s when it is said that tennis champion Chris Evert wore her diamond jewelry on the court, even while playing in professional matches. During one of these matches, her bracelet broke and went flying, and the match had to be halted while she looked for it. How the name tennis bracelet actually stuck is a matter of some debate. Either it was because Evert herself referred to the bracelet as her “tennis bracelet,” because she wore it during her tennis matches, or because someone else referred to it as such, no one is sure, but it has been called a tennis bracelet ever since.

A tennis or line bracelet is characterized by diamonds of the same shape, size, and cut lined up in a single row and set closely together. Depending upon the specific design, each stone is set into an individual setting of precious metal, then linked together, usually with tiny hinge pins, making the bracelet flexible. The effect is an unbroken line of sparkle around the wrist, which is why the line bracelet is sometimes also called an eternity bracelet. When the stones are set into white gold or platinum, the diamond line bracelet is dazzling. The design is very simple, which is usually what makes anything a classic.

A diamond tennis bracelet is aspirational for most of us because of the cost. Since the diamonds used are typically very small, many stones are needed to wrap all the way around the wrist, which can add up to multiple carats of gem weight. The stones must be very similar in clarity and color, since they are set immediately adjacent to one another. A single stone of poor color quality would visually break the line and ruin the effect. also, sourcing and setting so many nearly identical stones for a single piece of jewelry is labor-intensive. All of these factors, along with desirability, contribute to the sky-high price tag.

While the line bracelet is a classic, and can stand on its own, wearing it alongside a watch is tres chic. Want to wear diamonds with an edge? If bracelets are your jam, then you have probably indulged in the stacking trend. Stacking bracelets in multiples on one or both arms can elevate the look of an otherwise demure piece of jewelry. That barely visible diamond chip bracelet that you saved up for forever while in college can benefit by adding several sparkly siblings to create lots of drama. Although a diamond line bracelet may be a whisper-thin thread around the wrist, it is such an iconic look, not to mention a status symbol, that it requires no additional embellishment. I’ll never forget a photo I once saw in a magazine of Barbra Streisand wearing a diamond line bracelet as her only piece of jewelry, and I couldn’t take my eyes off of it.

Gentlemen, if you are enraptured by a woman who loves jewelry, you are all but guaranteed to be asked for a diamond tennis bracelet as a gift. Even if you are currently dating no such woman, I’d start saving now, because you can expect to spend thousands of dollars, depending upon how many gems and total carat weight is used to make up the design, and in what type of metal the stones are set. Doing a quick search, I saw a jewelry reseller named for a big blue river offering bracelets that start around $3,000, set in gold, and a high-end design house with a revered name that starts with a C is offering them starting at $20,000.00. I’ll take the one in rose gold, please.

Sparkle on!

Laura