Since we are all just recovering from ringing in the new year, I thought I’d make this post all about rings. See what I did there? Specifically, I want to share a bit of info about ring settings. When most people think about rings, they either think of an engagement or wedding ring, which typically features a large stone in the center of a band, or a fashion ring, which may be unadorned, or have a variety of gems, pearls, or other embellishments on the band. Today, I’m going to talk about a couple of different types of ring settings.
The word “setting” can be used when describing any jewelry that is embellished with some sort of stone. A setting is simply the way in which a gemstone is mounted, or set, into the ring band. The setting used can vary depending upon the style of the ring, as well as the type and shape of the gem. The setting can be part of the body of the ring itself, for example, when the shoulders, or sides, of the ring rise up to meet the center stone, or the setting can be a separate structure that is designed to maximize the brilliance and beauty of a gem.
The most common type of setting is called a prong setting. A prong is a tiny piece of wire that holds the stone in place. When the gem is dropped into position, the tines, or prongs, are bent over the edges of the stone in such a way as to secure the gem, but not obscure the beauty of the stone. Diamonds, which sparkle when viewed from every angle, benefit from a prong setting, because the tiny prongs barely cover any part of the stone. Prong settings allow lots of light to enter into a transparent gem, which bends and bounces around, thanks to the many facets. The light is then reflected back out, ensuring plenty of glittery goodness. A prong setting can consist of two, four, six, or even more prongs, depending upon the shape and size of the stone and ring style. The prongs are evenly distributed around the stone, and if the gem is a square cut, the prongs are usually placed at the corners, so as to protect them from chipping.
Prongs can also be formed into different shapes. A bead prong may be a tiny metal bead at the end of a piece of wire,or it can be a teardrop bead, where the widest portion extends over the top edge of the stone to hold it in place. Prongs can also be decorative. A prong may be fashioned to look like a leaf, a heart, or any shape that enhances the overall theme of the ring. There are also prongs that can be crafted so as to fit around the corners of a large square-cut stone, so that instead of a simple piece of wire bent over the corners, the prongs are shaped so that they can wrap around the corners at the correct 90 degree angle, to protect the stone from every direction. Think of the bumper guards on the corners of your phone, for example. Double-prong settings are when two tiny prongs are used at each position. There’s even a single prong setting, a specialty design where a combination of the mounting structure, a single prong or wire, and the tension and balance of the gem sets the stone into place. This type of setting has also been called an invisible setting, or an illusion setting, because it creates the impression the gem is simply floating atop the ring.
Prong settings are most often used when setting a precious or semi-precious gemstone, where the most beautiful properties of the stone, such as the color and sparkle, would be showcased best in a setting which allows for lots of light to refract and reflect. If an opaque stone is being set, other types of settings work well. Turquoise, onyx, lapis, rose quartz, and pearls are examples of opaque gems. Since these stones do not benefit by the penetration of light, other types of settings are used to show off an opaque gemstone’s color properties.
One of the most common types of settings for opaque gems is called a bezel setting. A bezel is a strip of metal that is wrapped around the stone and bent over the top edges, securing it into place. It is a smooth setting, which allows the stone to be incorporated into the design, flush with the metal, as opposed to setting the stone on top of the band. Southwestern, Native American, and Mexican jewelry designs frequently use bezel settings. Bezel settings also allow for worry-free wear, because there is nothing to catch or snag on fabric such as a prong, which could bend out of place, and loosen the stone. Because bezels settings can look sleek and clean, and can stand up well to wear and tear, this type of setting is often used in men’s jewelry. Bezel settings are a great way to protect a stone while showcasing the size, vivid color, and shape of a gem.
Do you have a favorite type of setting? There are many ways in which a gemstone can be set into a ring, and these are just two. I’ll be describing a couple of my personal favorites in a future post, so be sure to keep your eye out for them, if rings are your thing. Please subscribe to the blog by using the form at the bottom of the page so you don’t miss a post, and sparkle on!
Laura