Most jewelry lovers would probably agree that, other than jewelry that is sentimental, such as a wedding ring, there’s no point in wearing jewelry if it isn’t going to be seen. Whether enjoyed by the wearer or an admiring other, jewelry is an accessory that is worn to enhance the appearance or style of the person wearing it. Demure jewelry has its place, certainly. There’s definitely something to be said for less is more. However, most of us probably wear jewelry to make some sort of statement, whether about the wearer or the setting or circumstances. For those of us who are truly jewelry fanatics, though, the more, the sparklier, the bigger, the better! Can I get a witness?
Aside from gemstones, one way to enhance a piece of metal jewelry is to give it some sort of surface treatment. Metal surface treatments can consist of everything from color to cloisonne. There are two surface treatments that I’m writing about today, and interestingly, each is at opposite ends of the bling spectrum. One is diamond-cutting, the other, matte finishing.
I’ve written about diamond cutting in previous posts, but to review, diamond-cutting is when a diamond-tipped tool is used to make micro-cuts across the surface of the metal, shaving off a thin layer, almost like chiseling away tiny chips, which creates many more angles that reflect light. Diamond cutting can be used sparingly, to add a little something eye-catching to emphasize a design point, or it can be done in an all-over pattern, so as to create the illusion of tiny diamonds, or to elevate the flash factor by orders of magnitude.
To each his or her own, though, as not everyone is a fan of diamond-cutting. Some like their jewelry a little quieter, and precious metal purists love nothing more than the natural, un compromised gleam of high-polished metal. I love it, though, because when used strategically, diamond-cutting can take an otherwise plain or simple design and really amp things up. Plus, I love anything that sparkles, and when diamond-cutting is used liberally on a piece of jewelry, it’s sparkle city.
Another favorite surface treatment that I love is matte finishing. Now, after all I just said about loving sparkle, this may seem surprising. Matte finishing is a treatment that “scuffs” or buffs the shine from the surface of a piece of metal. For lack of a better way to describe it, matte finishing dulls the metal shine. That may not sound pretty, but when done right, and on the right piece of jewelry, a matte finish is sophisticated and elegant. It’s not over-the-top, it doesn’t work hard to be noticed, and it’s unusual.
Matte or satin finishing, also sometimes called a Florentine finish, are each types of treatments that can change the surface texture of metal, while still emphasizing the luminous quality of fine jewelry. These surface treatments are applied using either hand tools, such as a brush or wire, or achieved by a chemical process that creates a non-reflective finish. Instead of a shine, the metal seems to glow. It’s beautiful.
When both diamond-cutting is used along with satin finishing, the effect is stunning. Imagine a softly glowing, matte finish sterling silver bangle bracelet with a diamond-cut pattern of vines and flowers winding its way around the wrist. Or a pendant where a glittering gem is set into a matte backdrop, so that the satin metal finish ensures all eyes will snap to attention on that gorgeous gem, because there is no other glittery embellishment to compete with the stone. Using both diamond-cutting and satin finishing on the same piece insures visual interest, it creates contrast, and can emphasize a design element that might otherwise go unnoticed. On the other hand, I’ve seen designs that have been so beautifully diamond cut, you would swear the surface was covered with tiny pave diamonds. The technique is especially illusory and effective when done on white metal.
These and other types of surface alterations can make a chameleon of jewelry. Changing the look of the metal can take what would otherwise be an inexpensive piece of either fashion or fine jewelry and turn it into a piece that looks like it belongs in a higher tax bracket. Conversely, these same techniques can transform a modern design into what appears to be an heirloom from decades long ago. Look for more posts on metal surface treatments in upcoming posts, so stay with me and sparkle on!
Laura