Quality craftsmanship is usually pretty easy to spot, if one knows what to look for. Whether shopping for apparel, accessories, furniture, or jewelry, there are unmistakable marks of distinction that elevate an item to rarified air. What characterizes fine examples of architecture, art objects, couture fashion, or just about anything else can usually be found in the details. Of course, you’ve heard the expression, “the devil is in the details,” right? Well, when it comes to fine craftsmanship, quality is also in the details.

When shopping for jewelry, most would probably think that the high price of a pretty bauble has to do with the materials used to make it. Diamonds and gold are expensive, therefore, a gold and diamond bracelet is expensive. True enough, at least to a point. There is little correlation, however, between cost and quality. You can easily find one without the other. Often, the details that might go unnoticed are the trademarks of fine craftsmanship. Tiny components or proprietary techniques that bring a certain indefinable something extra to a piece of jewelry, quietly speaks volumes about the level of quality you are buying, along with painstaking attention to detail. Sometimes, that detail may be evident in the choices that are made when selecting the finishing touches for a piece of jewelry. For example, when a designer chooses the type of clasp to use to secure a piece of jewelry.

There are so many different types of jewelry clasps, and I’ve already written about two of them, the classic spring ring clasp, and the lobster claw. Both of these are common, workhorse clasps, generally reliable, but nothing special to look at. When examining a jewelry item for quality, one of the components that can bring a level of sophistication and visual appeal that makes the difference between run-of-the-mill and top-of-the-hill can be a distinctive, decorative clasp.

One of my own favorites is the toggle clasp. I use it throughout the Elegant Insights jewelry line for a few reasons. First, it’s a little unusual. While it has certainly become more popular as jewelry has become ever more mass-marketed, thanks to TV shopping, the toggle clasp is one of those components that can make or break how a jewelry piece is perceived by a potential customer. Instead of utilitarian, it is more of an adornment, if for no other reason than its size. While a springring clasp can be very small, just 1/8th of an inch on a smaller chain, a toggle clasp is usually much larger, thereby adding weight and substance.

For those of you who have never seen one, a toggle clasp consists of two parts, each attached to opposite ends of a chain. One piece is a ring, with an attached loop or jump ring. The other piece is a bar, which by virtue of the way the toggle works, must be longer than the ring is in diameter. So, if the toggle ring is a half-inch across, the bar may be twice that long. The bar also has a loop, at the midpoint of the bar, which is then attached to the other chain end.

The way a toggle clasp works is by making use of gravity and tension. You simply slip the bar through the ring, and the weight of the pendant, or the tension created by the pull of the chain keeps the bar from slipping back through the ring. If the proportions of the toggle clasp, sometimes also called a bar and ring clasp, are the correct proportions, it should be practically impossible for the bar to slip out of the ring, because the bar is so much longer than the ring diameter.

Toggles can be found in endless configurations. Toggle clasps can be plain, just a shiny bar and ring without any decoration, or the clasp itself can be quite ornate. For example, the ring can be created to look like a wreath of leaves, and the bar can be made to look like a branch. When the bar is pulled through the ring, it makes for a very elaborate looking structure, and when incorporated into a design, can be almost invisible as part of the pattern. The toggle ring can also be a heart, with the bar in the shape of an arrow. When pulled through the ring, the heart and arrow together becomes a recognizable symbol. The bar can also be highly decorative, in that the ring can be made to look like a trellis, and the bar can be a meandering grapevine. Or, the toggle clasp can be bold and weighty, and create the feel of a buckle, something you might see on horse tack or even climbing gear, creating an equestrian, sporty, or nautical effect. Toggle clasps can be wire-wrapped, gem set, hammered, diamond-cut, or whatever the jewelry design or theme calls for.

Finally, toggle clasps are usually easy-on, easy-off. Most wearers can put on their jewelry without assistance, which is a big plus for anyone frustrated by trying to attach a bracelet with a lobster claw or springring clasp. Putting on and securing jewelry can be so problematic that there are even assistive doo-dads that act as an extra hand, to hold one end of the bracelet while the wearer attempts to secure it with the other. A toggle clasp can solve the problem of asking your spouse for help, which can be as frustrating for them as for you, because anyone with larger fingers, long nails, or poor eyesight can struggle mightily trying to close a piece of jewelry with a traditional clasp.

A decorative or unusual clasp is one of those elements that can beautifully contribute to the overall esthetic of a fine jewelry design, whether the item is crafted from precious metals and gems or sterling silver and faux pearls. Next time you are shopping for jewelry, examine several pieces and identify how the clasp either contributes to, or detracts from, a design. While a unique closing mechanism is only one aspect of quality, it is certainly not the only one. However, unusual clasps are typically far more expensive than standard clasps, and if a designer is willing to spend more money on a beautiful clasp that enhances his or her design, then chances are, there are other aspects of quality craftsmanship that you can always ask to be made aware of. A good salesperson will be delighted to point out all the best features of a piece of jewelry, so as to ensure you will be eager to own and proudly wear their work. The toggle clasp is one easy and stylish way to put your jewelry on, and, of course, to get your sparkle on!

Laura

Laura Legendary is the owner of Elegant Insights Braille Creations, which offers jewelry and accessories that are beautiful, unusual, accessible, and inclusive. Shop the collection at elegantinsightsjewelry.com/

Since St. Patrick’s Day is upcoming, I thought I’d write about green gems. When shopping by color, gems are a great way to incorporate a trendy color into your look without investing in a garment that you may wear one season, especially if the color of the moment isn’t your best shade. Green isn’t always flattering for everyone, and with the exception of St. Patrick’s Day, wearing it head-to-toe isn’t a good look. Even Kermit The Frog admitted it’s not easy, being green. So, for those of you who are not going as a Muppet, leprechaun, or legume for Halloween, gems might be the best way to carry off the wearing of the green.

The good news is, there are lots of beautiful shades of green in the natural world, and gemstones are no exception. There are both transparent and opaque precious and semi-precious stones from which to choose. I’ve heard many people say they dislike their birthstone for August, the Peridot, but if that is the case for you, then I suggest you look around to find a better representation of the gem. Peridot can be found in a variety of shades, from olive to a mouth-watering, bright candy green. Peridot is an example of a transparent green gem, but most probably prefer the deep green of emeralds. Unfortunately, emeralds are considered a precious gem, and are very difficult to find in larger sizes. It is usually heavily included, and it is extremely costly if you can find a specimen that is a true emerald green.

In the opaque semi-precious realm, though, there are lots of pretty green gems from which to choose. Jade, or jadeite, is probably one that leaps to mind when you think of green stones, but there is also malachite, serpentine, agate, aventurine, and two transparent options, chrome diopside, and Tsavorite garnet. Each of these offers a distinctive shade in the green range, from earthy, olive green to a grass or fern green, to a rich marbleized forest green.

Looking for a fashion-forward way to wear green jewelry? Pearls might be a good option for you, as they take a dye well, and while you probably won’t wear dyed green pearls to a formal event, dyed freshwater pearls are an inexpensive way to be seen in green. If you have green as one of your wedding theme colors, or are planning an autumn wedding, you have more green options than you might have thought.

Whether you hope the luck of the Irish will be with you on March 17, or you just want to wear a color represented in nature, green gemstones are abundant and beautiful. Best of luck finding that pot of gold, and sparkle on!

Laura

As I slowly acquire more readers, I want to reiterate the mission of the Sparkle On blog. If you are joining me for the first time, you may be mystified as to why I describe certain features or characteristics of a piece of jewelry that should be obvious to anyone who has seen it. Well, for people who are blind or visually impaired, it may not be quite so obvious. In some cases, a person who is blind or who has low vision may never have seen a photo of a particular thing, let alone have ever handled it. A great deal can be learned by touch, but I don’t know many people who would buy something as expensive as jewelry just for the benefit of exploration. So, I attempt to provide meaningful descriptions of jewelry, parts and pieces, styles and trends, as well as to supply definitions of industry terms. Okay? If you’ve been with me since the beginning, I promise I won’t repeat this forever. Today’s post is a perfect example of how something as simple as a specific bracelet style could be quickly and easily explained in a photo, yet might still be unclear for someone who is blind.

The cuff bracelet is a deceptively simple profile that packs a lot of style punch. Simple, yes, in that there are usually no moving parts. There is usually nothing that is attached, or that dangles, or that is constructed using complicated or sophisticated metal tooling or crafting techniques. The appearance of a cuff bracelet can be deceiving, though, because it can take a lot of engineering to create what otherwise looks like a simple piece of metal.

The cuff bracelet gets it’s name from the idea of a shirt cuff. the bracelet is worn close to the wrist, the way a watch is snug around the wrist, and it is also usually worn close to the hand, at the wrist bone, as opposed to traveling freely up and down the forearm. A cuff bracelet is open at the bottom, and does not have a clasp. It does not encircle the wrist like a bangle bracelet. The opening at the bottom of the cuff is just wide enough to allow for the bracelet to slip over the wrist bone, which may require that you turn your arm sideways in order to slide the bracelet onto your wrist, then give the bracelet a little turn to set it straight. Depending upon the design, the cuff may be wider as it curves over the top of the wrist, and taper as it curves around to the bottom. Some cuff bracelets can be very wide, anywhere from one-half to two inches or more. It may seem that because the cuff is open at the bottom this type of bracelet might easily fall off. Usually, the bracelet can be gently squeezed to fit more closely to the wrist, and can narrow the gap at the bottom, ensuring the cuff stays put.

A cuff can offer a lot of look for the price. Because of the wide surface area, there’s plenty of room for design elements. Often, cuff bracelets are hammered, stamped, stippled, domed, or textured. these are all ways to describe how the metal can be manipulated using tools to create eye-catching surface effects.

Cuff bracelets can be sleek, high polished metal sheet, or they can be cast. Metal casting is where liquid metal is poured into a mold, cooled, then filed and polished. A bracelet that is made from metal sheet is lightweight and bendable, whereas a cast metal bracelet is typically a heavy gauge that feels solid and rigid. Either type can accommodate the addition of riveted or soldered elements such as layers of other metals, enameling, inlaid, or prong-set gemstones.

One reason cuff bracelets are especially beautiful is that they usually have a clean line, lacking the jingle-jangle or movement of a charm bracelet, and if one is going to a job interview or a place of worship, wearing jewelry that is quiet is most appropriate. Also, since a cuff does not move freely the way a bangle or chain bracelet would, the fact that it will always remain close to the hand means it will peek out from the hem of a shirt cuff, instead of getting stuck inside your sleeve.

If you have a very small, or larger than average wrist, you might want to measure your wrist size and check it against the “fits as,” size if sizing is mentioned in the product description. Repeatedly pulling open and squeezing closed to fit is not recommended, especially if the bracelet has riveted or soldered parts, gems, stones, or other features that are set into or applied to the bracelet. You might pop out gems or rivets, or pull apart an overlaid metal sheet. You can always ask a jeweler to add a safety chain to the bottom opening, if you are really concerned about the cuff slipping off. The addition of a safety chain can be attached without disrupting the design, but it could also make clasping the bracelet difficult if you don’t have nearby help. One of the benefits of wearing a cuff is that it’s easy on, easy off.

If you are going to wear a wide cuff bracelet, make it your only bracelet on that arm. Because cuffs are typically large and visually unbroken bands of metal, it is a statement piece that would be diminished by the addition of other bracelets. If you really want to wear multiple pieces, keep the cuff on one arm, and layer your chain bracelets on the other. that’s a lot of jewelry,, though, so keep that in mind if you are going for the “less is more” look. As a side note for my readers who use a mobility device, such as a white cane, I have found that I cannot wear a bracelet on my cane wielding arm. Either the grip or the cord gets in the way, and I find it distracting, and therefore, potentially dangerous. If you are already wearing a smartwatch on your left wrist, and carrying your white cane with your right hand, you may find that you have to choose between the watch and a cuff. It’s personal preference, obviously.

Cuff bracelets are also sometimes worn on the upper arm, just above the elbow. These are usually a little thinner, and they can be very attractive on someone with cut biceps. I’ve seen these on both men and women. If you have great guns, wear an upper arm cuff, also called a biceps band, with a sleeveless top.

Finally, this post would not be complete unless I acknowledged the ultimate glamazon, Wonder Woman, the diva superhero who could rock the cuff on both wrists and fight crime at the same time. We’re not worthy…we’re not worthy… So,,, be a superhero and sparkle on!

Laura

If you watched the 2019 Academy Awards, then you already know what everybody’s talking about. Even if you didn’t watch, you know the two scene-stealers of the night were Lady Ga Ga and her eye-popping necklace. Oh, and her smoldering onstage chemistry with her “A Star is Born” co-star. That’s a topic for a different blog, however. Since one of the featured categories here on Sparkle On is the introduction to, and description of, iconic jewelry and gems, I thought I’d offer up some details on the Tiffany diamond set into the necklace worn by the Ga Ga, along with a bit of history about the various ways in which it has been set.

[bctt tweet=”The centerpiece of Lady Ga Ga’s Oscar night necklace was a yellow, cushion-cut diamond, weighing in at an astounding 128.54 carats. Mind you, that’s just the center stone.”] The necklace itself was a station style, set in platinum, with an additional 16 cushion-cut diamonds and 46 round brilliant diamonds. For my readers who are blind or visually impaired, I’ll describe a few of these details.

A cushion-cut stone is a variation of a square shape, but with softened corners. Think of a sofa cushion, and you’ll get the idea. The sides of a cushion cut stone may also be slightly softened so that the edges gracefully curve into the rounded corners. The overall shape of the gemstone is much less sharply geometric than a regular square-cut stone would be. A station necklace is a style where groupings, clusters, or individual pearls or gems are scattered over the length of the chain at regular intervals. This particular style was relatively recently called the “Tin Cup necklace,” named for the movie “Tin Cup,” where the female lead wore a chain with individual pearls stationed along the length of the chain. It’s an iconic look that has been around much longer than the movie “Tin Cup,” but giving the necklace a name with a movie reference made the style instantly recognizable for anyone who saw the star wearing the necklace throughout the film. Although, frankly, to compare the two necklaces is laughable. It would be akin to referring to the Grand Canyon as a divot, or calling Niagara Falls a babbling brook.

In the case of Lady Ga Ga’s necklace, the “stations” consisted of yellow, cushion-cut diamonds surrounded by more diamonds. It is the centerpiece diamond, however, that enjoys legendary status.

According to the Hollywood Reporter, the Tiffany Diamond is one of the largest cut yellow diamonds in the world. It was discovered in 1877 in the Kimberley Mines in South Africa and at the time of its excavation was a rough stone totaling 287.42 carats. It was purchased by Charles Lewis Tiffany in 1878 and cut into a cushion-shaped diamond featuring 82 radiant facets — roughly two dozen more than a round brilliant diamond. Gaga complemented the necklace with a pair of earrings featuring fancy vivid yellow and white diamonds set in platinum and 18-karat yellow gold.

One estimate puts the stone’s value at $30 million. The stone is rarely seen outside Tiffany and Company’s New York flagship location. It is often shown as the centerpiece diamond on a brooch. The stone itself is called The Tiffany Diamond, and it has never been worn on an awards show red carpet. It was last included as the center stone of a necklace for a publicity shot Audrey Hepburn did for the film “Breakfast at Tiffany’s.”

There are tons of incredible photos of the necklace, up close and personal, online, and I encourage you to check them out. Since they are all copyrighted photos, I was unable to include any of them here, but if you can magnify the images, you will be speechless at the fire and sparkle that explodes from this piece of gorgeousness. If you are a jewelry lover, as I am, then I know your heart is beating faster at just the thought of trying on a work of jewelry art of this caliber. Well, browse on, dream on, and sparkle on!

Laura

As a long-time advocate for people with disabilities, I have used the word “inclusion” innumerable times. It has been my life’s work to lend my voice to those who have no voice of their own, to encourage autonomy, self-determination, to teach effective, respectful communication so that people with disabilities can enjoy equal access to a greater quality of life. This has been achieved through authoring course curricula, public speaking, classroom instruction, activism, and blogging. I have given speeches on the steps of a state capital, and presented disability awareness workshops for corporate, community, and caregiver education. Throughout, I have brought attention to issues such as workplace diversity and societal access and inclusion. Today, though, I am going to use the word inclusion in a whole new way – as it applies to jewelry. Specifically, how the word inclusion is used to describe characteristics of gemstones.

Gemstones are produced under myriad conditions, whether heat, the presence of water, volcanic activity, pressure, and so on. As a result, a gemstone may be either compromised or enhanced by the presence of other minerals as the crystals form. A diamond, for example, is a gem that is subject to the most extreme conditions imaginable in order to become the glittering, coveted gem we know it to be. It is because of these extreme conditions that the vast majority of diamonds have flaws. these flaws are called inclusions.

An inclusion in a diamond is not necessarily a bad thing. inclusions can be so infinitesimal that they cannot be seen with the naked eye, in which case the diamonds are said to be “eye-clean.” Inclusions can serve as identifying marks, which can be useful when sorting or categorizing a stone. An inclusion can also help to determine a diamond’s authenticity, as truly flawless diamonds are so rare that most jewelers have never seen one. Inclusions can be tiny pinpoints, cavities, or cracks. They can be spots of carbon or other impurities that were present in the material as it was crystallizing. There may be any combination of inclusions that are large, microscopic, or found in quantity.

When an inclusion affects the structure of the diamond, for example, if it is a cavity or crack, this affects the quality. A diamond may be determined to be industrial grade, or unsuitable for jewelry, especially if the inclusion creates clouding or discoloration, or if the inclusion could interfere with the structural integrity of a stone, such as to cause fracturing or chipping. Since most diamond jewelry sold at retail is eye-clean, a ten times magnification instrument has typically been used to view inclusions. Today, technology has been introduced that enables both professionals and consumers to view a 360 degree hi resolution image of a diamond, so that every flaw can be seen.

There is a specific nomenclature associated with how inclusions in a diamond are recorded. The number of inclusions is identified with the number, 1, 2, etc. based upon how many are visible. A diamond can be included, slightly included, or very slightly included, and these variations are noted as I, S, or VS. If a diamond has one large inclusion, this might be represented by I1. Multiple inclusions that can be seen under magnification is graded as S2, or S3, depending upon how many are visible, of course. If a stone has a very tiny or microscopic inclusion, the stone may be graded as VVS 1, for “very very slightly included.” This basic explanation is only a small part of the way diamonds are graded, as the color, cut, and carat weight are also taken into consideration. As you may have already guessed, the type and number of inclusions in a diamond is indicative of the clarity of a gem, which is one of the “four C’s” of a diamond, the famous marketing scheme used by retailers to assist consumers in calculating the most diamond they can afford. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is one of the authorities of the gem world that has created a detailed grading system for gemologists and other jewelry professionals that can be complex and sophisticated, but available to any consumer who would like to know more about how to grade a diamond. You can go to the GIA web site here.

Because the determination of a gemstone quality can be just a bit subjective, you can see how a rating system is an important part of understanding the value of a gem. Diamonds are not the only stones that contain inclusions. In fact, many gems do, and some of the inclusions are actually a beautiful aspect of their character. For example, turquoise is often found along with the mineral copper, and a turquoise stone with visible flecks of copper throughout is gorgeous. Lapis Lazuli is prized for its highly saturated royal blue color, and sometimes it is found flecked with pyrite, which adds a bit of golden sparkle. In neither case does the presence of inclusions devalue the stone. On the other hand, it is so difficult to find emeralds with that iconic deep green hue, in part because a great deal of other mineral matter is prevalent throughout the gem that separating the gem material from the inclusions can sometimes result in very tiny specimens. It is the presence of the inclusions that turn an emerald green stone into one that can look almost black.

It’s amazing, isn’t it, that a word in one context can mean something utterly different in another context? The word “inclusion” is a perfect example. So, when shopping for gems, don’t forget to include questions about inclusions. It just goes to show that flaws can be beautiful! I say, be inclusive, include lots of gems in your jewelry collection, and sparkle on!

Laura

There’s lots to like about silver jewelry. It’s reflective, bright, shiny, enduring, abundant, and relatively inexpensive when compared to other white metals. If you love jewelry, but don’t have the budget to afford your own taste in gold or platinum, silver jewelry is a way for you to invest in the designs, or designers, you love without having to make too many sacrifices. Silver jewelry has always been widely available, although it hasn’t always been easy to find in an upscale or fine jewelry store. Even though silver is an element on the periodic table, mined from the earth, not all jewelry purveyors consider silver a precious metal. However, shifting financial conditions have made silver alternatively more or less desirable as an investment, thanks to the increased use of silver in electronic devices. It is the aesthetic beauty, we arability, and affordability of silver that has put silver jewelry at the top of many consumers wish lists.

As you shop for silver jewelry, you may have noticed, and been confused by, the numerous different types of silver available. Not only are some jewelry items sold under designer brand names, it can also be sold with a manufacturer’s brand name, or even a country name or cultural reference, such as Mexican silver, Bali, Tibetan,, or “tribal” silver. Each of these types of silver have their own appeal, but you should be aware of a few important distinctions between them, as all silver jewelry is not created equal.

In the United States, the quality standard for silver is called Sterling silver, which is 92.5 percent pure silver, 7.5 percent copper, or other metals in trace amounts. This alloy offers strength, durability, and a high shine when polished. When buying silver jewelry, look for the quality hallmark somewhere on the piece that denotes the purity, such as .925, or similar. The vast majority of what you’ll buy at any retail jewelry store will be Sterling silver.

Other silver available from galleries, boutiques, or shops off the beaten path may offer silver jewelry with exotic names that sound intriguing, but may also be misleading. For example, nickel silver is not silver at all. There is no elemental silver contained in nickel silver. The term is simply a description of the color. In fact, it has been decades since monetary coins contained actual silver. Now, base metals are used, and make up the vast majority of all coins, with the exception of investment coins, which are typically sold with a certificate of authenticity,along with a serial number or other identifying mark. Jewelry crafted in countries such as Indonesia, Tibet, Nepal, and elsewhere is absolutely beautiful, unique, and usually entirely hand-crafted by local artisans, but be aware that the alloy may contain undesirable substances or harmful metals such as lead. You may find a hallmark on these items that shows .900, or 90 percent silver content, or you may find no purity hallmark at all.

At the other end of the spectrum, you may encounter a type of silver called “fine silver.” Fine silver is 99.99 percent pure, and is hallmarked as .999. This is often sold under a particular brand name with a trademark sign, so you will know it is authentic. Fine silver is rare, though, and because it is very soft, it tends to more easily scratch and dent, so it is not recommended for those who are rough on their jewelry. It does polish up to a lovely high shine, however, and when directly compared to Sterling silver, there is a noticeable color difference.

Finally there is an interesting and relatively new type of silver that has recently hit the market. Most commonly, it is sold under the brand name Argentium silver, although there are other brands. This type of silver has only existed since 1991, when a metallurgist and master silversmith by the name of Peter Johns introduced a new metal, germanium, to the silver alloy. this addition resulted in a silver that was about 7 times more tarnish-resistant than Sterling silver. The alloy also contains a greater amount of pure silver, either 93.5 or 96 percent, which is hallmarked as .935 or .960, respectively. Because this new alloy is trademarked, the Argentium brand is also marked with their logo, a winged unicorn, depicted below.

Argentium brand silver was developed specifically to bring to market a more tarnish-resistant metal, but it also possesses many properties which make working with this type of silver desirable for metalsmiths. Because the differences are more technical than visual, there has been an extensive marketing campaign behind educating the public as to the benefits of Argentium silver. One drawback is the price, which is significantly higher than the price of standard silver, and it is also harder to find. However, the single greatest drawback of purchasing silver jewelry is that it will eventually tarnish unless regularly cleaned, and silver manufacturers have attempted to either coat the surface of silver with an anti-tarnish substance, or to plate the silver with rhodium or other white metal, which also adds to the price. Argentium and other brands of this new silver alloy may be the answer for jewelry lovers who prefer a well-priced and low-maintenance white metal.

You’ll find many different types of silver out there, all beautiful in their own way. But if you care about quality, durability, purity, and manufacturing integrity, look for those hallmarks as you choose your pieces. While there has certainly been some counterfeit hallmarks, this is rare, and a reputable jeweler or retail outlet knows what to avoid. Now that you know some of the important differences between types of silver jewelry, keep your eyes open and shop with confidence. Sparkle on!

Laura

Well, it’s the week of Valentine’s Day, which this year falls on Thursday, and there is no end to the topical articles, ads, and admonishments about Valentine’s Day expectations. Valentine’s Day has become a bit controversial here in the US, because those supposed to be lucky in love are elevated, while those sadly single are left out of the romantic antics. There has even been a cross-culture movement celebrating a version of Valentine’s Day for singles. I’ve heard it called everything from Galentine’s Day to, well, just Thursday. Valentine’s Day is also the most popular day of the year to engage your beloved, with Christmas the second most popular day to become engaged. What I wanted to know, though, was why do we wear engagement and wedding rings on the fourth finger of our left hands?

When I began to research the answer, I discovered so many articles on the subject that I suppose it’s common knowledge. But it wasn’t to me, so the first place I turned to was the authority on all things bridal. I was surprised to learn that there really is no single worldwide tradition.

According to Bride’s Magazine, [bctt tweet=”the practice of wearing a wedding ring on our left hand began back in Roman times when it was thought that the vein in the fourth finger of the left hand was directly connected to the heart.”] So, a ring, a circle, a symbol of eternity, was placed on the digit that became known as the “ring finger.” Today, of course, we know that all of our fingers have veins that run directly to our hearts, so there it is. So much for romantic lore.

In many other countries, though, the wedding ring is worn on the right hand, as in some cases, the left hand is thought to be unclean. In other cases, different fingers are used to sport wedding bands, and inn the modern era of commitments of all kinds, promise rings, chastity rings, rings that symbolize bonds of all sorts are worn on a variety of fingers. In some countries, a tradition of wearing an engagement ring on the right hand, then transferring it to the left after the wedding vows are spoken is common.

Finally, if a bride will be wearing both her engagement ring and wedding ring together, it has become a tradition in the US that the wedding band be worn geographically closest to the heart, in other words, pushed onto the finger and worn closest to the knuckle nearest the wrist, and the engagement ring worn next. Eternity bands or anniversary rings are then worn stacked next, so that it is positioned nearest the end of the finger in the ring “sandwich.”

Nowadays, there are so many non-traditional traditions, including the materials commitment rings are made of, that it hardly matters where you wear your ring. Do what is meaningful in your own relationship. Traditions, like rules, are made to be broken. Viva la romance! Sparkle on!

Laura

If you are a jewelry lover, then you probably have a sizeable jewelry box (or boxes) filled with everything from fine to fashion jewelry, styles from antique to organic, metals from platinum to plated. Even if you don’t consider your own collection to be a large one, at some point anyone who owns jewelry asks the question: How do I keep this clean? The answers differ greatly depending upon the metals, materials, and method of construction used to craft a particular piece of jewelry.

Right off, it is important to know that there is no one-size-fits-all jewelry cleaner, and you can destroy a cherished piece of jewelry by using the wrong cleaning product or method. There are some cleaning products that are better for certain types of metal, others safe for gems, and none that I would recommend for cleaning pearls or other jewelry made of organic matter. Beware of any jewelry cleaner that would claim to be safe for everything. While it’s true that gemstones are, in essence, rocks that were dug up from the ground, that doesn’t mean they are impervious to chemical reaction. While most widely available jewelry cleaners are not caustic, some are more harsh than others, for example, those that contain ammonia. However, even soaking some gems or metals in liquid for any period can cause damage to your jewelry.

One reason for this is that the vast majority of gemstones sold commercially have been treated or altered in some way to enhance their appearance. Gemstones may have been colorized, heat treated, irradiated, injected with dyes or resin, or altered by way of some combination of these. What you don’t know can ruin your jewelry. That’s why an ethical jewelry reseller will disclose any treatments to which your gem has been subjected. Gemstones that have tiny cracks , chips, or inclusions may have been enhanced with fillers, and those fillers can disintegrate when exposed to a jewelry cleaner. Also, a gem color may fade with prolonged or repeated use of jewelry cleaners. Additionally, exposure to liquid can damage plated jewelry, as moisture can seep between the layers and hasten the deterioration of the plating, revealing the unsightly base metal.

Gemstones that are porous should not be exposed to jewelry cleaners, no matter how gentle. Turquoise, pearls, shell, wood, and even some man-made products such as rhinestones or CZ should not be cleaned with most jewelry cleaning products. The gem can absorb some of the solution, and staining or discoloring can occur. Also, semi-precious and natural materials are often strung on silk cord, leather, wax coated cotton, filament, or other stringing materials that may not hold up well to soaking or exposure to liquid. The string can expand, shrink, discolor, stretch, or fray over time. If the stringing material falls apart, your beads, shells, or pearls could be lost.

Most commercial jewelry cleaning kits are gentle, and usually safe and effective at removing tarnish, surface dirt and oil, and bringing back the sparkle and shine of your jewelry. However, be sure to read the instructions carefully, and look for the warnings about what substances should not be cleaned with the product. In some cases, it might be better to simply use of soft cloth to wipe down your jewelry before storage. Or, depending upon how elaborate the jewelry design, a small amount of metal polish, tapped onto the safe surfaces and wiped off with a lint-free cloth is a better option than dipping the jewelry into a cleaning bath. Although ultrasonic cleaning devices are marketed as safe and effective for cleaning your precious jewelry, it is not recommended for certain stones and metal surface treatments. The vibration of the device can dislodge a gem from the setting, or it can harm a chemical patina or remove applied enamel or oxidation. This type of jewelry cleaner should only be used in cases where extreme steps are needed to remove deeply embedded particles, lotion, or other debris.

Great caution should be taken when attempting to clean your jewelry with any of the myriad DIY jewelry cleaning “recipes” you may have seen online. While the combination of baking soda and vinegar may sound harmless, the texture of the paste may be too abrasive, and you may find that your jewelry is clean, but covered in micro scratches that have dulled the shine. Before committing an entire piece of jewelry to a full-on dunking in any cleaner, test a small area first, let it dry, then examine the area carefully to be sure there is no fading, scratching, dulling, pitting, or other surface damage. Also, the substance you use to clean your jewelry one time may react poorly with a different substance you may use another time. There are reactions that occur with metals exposed to chemicals that may not show up until the next time you go to wear your jewelry, at which time you may notice your piece has turned a spotted, sickly green. Metals that are non-corrosive, such as gold, titanium, and stainless steel will fare better with just about any jewelry cleaner, but when in doubt, take your jewelry to a local store to have it professionally cleaned. Many mom-and-pop retail jewelry stores will clean a piece or two for you at no cost, as a gesture of their excellent customer service.

In future posts, I’ll share some tips on removing tarnish, safely cleaning and storing your precious jewelry collection, and about some of the products we use at Elegant Insights to keep our metals shining. Sparkle on!

Laura

Quartz is one of the most abundant mineral substances on the globe. It is found in almost every mineral environment on Earth, and makes up the content of most rocks. Quartz can be found in many colors, and in large specimens. Although examination of a random piece of quartz you may have picked up off the ground may not conjure up images of colorful, sparkling gemstones, some of your favorite gems are actually quartz. Amethyst, Citrine, and Agate are all varieties of quartz.

One of my favorite stones from the quartz family is rose quartz. Natural rose quartz ranges from pale pink to a deeper rose tone. The darker the color, the more rare, and therefore, the more desirable. Rose quartz is opaque, and can have a mottled appearance which can includes shades of brown or gray. Since rose quartz is only slightly translucent, it is not cut and faceted the same way transparent gems are faceted. Rose quartz is usually tumbled and polished, and left in natural, organic nugget shapes or formed into round beads. It can also be carved. I’ve purchased rose quartz stones that have been carved into flowers, hearts, and seashell shapes.

My favorite way to use rose quartz in my own designs is to pair it with copper. Since copper has its own rosy hue, the combination is very complementary. However, pink is one of those colors that looks well paired with both warm and cool tones, and it is just as pretty set with sterling silver as it is with yellow gold.

If you are shopping for rose quartz, be aware that natural rose quartz is not a solid color like pink tourmaline or a pink sapphire. Intense, bright, or uniform pink coloration usually suggests the stone has been dyed. Reputable resellers will identify the color quality of a stone using a letter grading system, and will disclose whether a stone has been enhanced. A rating of “AAA” is superior to a single “A” grade, which is preferable to a “C” or lower color grade stone, etc.

Rose quartz is just one of many beautiful opaque, semi-precious gems. While this type of stone may not be as coveted as an emerald, sapphire, or diamond, the greater availability and the far lower cost makes owning lots of pretty, colorful jewelry possible for those of us on a budget. And really, who isn’t? If you love the color pink, then rock the rose quartz, and sparkle on!

Laura

In today’s post, you are going to learn a word you have likely never heard before, and will probably never use or hear again in your entire life. The word is “swaging.” It’s an important jewelry-making term, though, because to swage is to transform, and, as it applies to our topic today, is responsible for one of the prettiest and most popular chain styles you will wear.

In the previous Sparkle On blog post, we discussed two common chain types, the curb link and the cable chain. We are going to chat about chain again today, but this time, we are going to talk about the herringbone chain, which actually starts its life as the aforementioned curb and cable links. Swaging is a metalworking process used to change the shape or dimensions of chain links, using a shaped tool or die. This shaping process is used to condense, flatten or generally modify the overall appearance of metal chain, usually to create variations of more common chain styles. Swaging, sometimes also called swedging, is a cold forging technique, although there are variations that involve the use of heat. It is a popular method used for working precious metal, because none of the metal is lost in the modification process. Swage, as a noun, is sometimes used to describe the tool itself.

The tools used vary depending upon the desired result. Swaging can create tapers or flares in metal wire, by forcing a larger piece of metal through rollers and dies, and drawing out a smaller or flatter piece. Think of your child’s Play-Doh toy, where globs of Play-Doh are pushed through a plastic “die,” which then produces fun shapes such as tubes, stars, or other geometric shapes which can then be cut up or formed into whatever the child wants. Want a more grown-up example? Have you ever made your own pasta from scratch? You can shape or flatten the semolina dough by hand, or you can use a pasta-making kitchen gadget where quantities of pasta dough are pushed through an extruder, which shapes the pasta dough into spaghetti, linguini, angel hair, rigatoni or whatever shape you want for dinner. Well, with the notable difference that we are talking about precious metal and a sophisticated manufacturing process that results in beautiful jewelry, it’s similar.

The herringbone chain is a prime example of what results from the swaging process. The herringbone is a ribbon of gold or silver, extremely thin and flexible. The herringbone starts its life as either a curb link or cable chain, and is forced through a swage until it emerges as the highly compressed, gleaming length of metal that, because it’s all flat surface area, reflects light like a mirror. Herringbone can be as thin as paper, and a bit on the delicate side, so it requires a little more attention and TLC than its heartier link chain counterparts. It can easily kink, bend, crack, and even chip, so after wearing a herringbone chain, either lay it flat for storage, or wind it up like a snake and give it its own home in a separate section of your jewelry box.

One lovely variation of the herringbone chain is accomplished by using a rotary swage, which gives the chain a twist as it is extruded from the tool. This produces a soft spiral. This style of chain is called a serpentine chain. Like the herringbone, it is flat with a high-polish finish, but because the light reflects off of the varying angles due to the twist, it can change the mirror-like finish into a sparkling one.

Wow! Who knew that you’d learn a new vocabulary word today. Well, it’s not likely you’ll be able to toss it out there in casual conversation, but if you love jewelry, it’s an interesting bit of information as to how chain is manufactured. Because jewelry metals, in particular, gold and silver, are so soft and malleable, transforming nondescript bits of precious metal into almost anything imaginable makes metal forging such a creative process. It’s like playing with the world’s most expensive Play-Doh! Sparkle on!

Laura