Most jewelry lovers would probably agree that, other than jewelry that is sentimental, such as a wedding ring, there’s no point in wearing jewelry if it isn’t going to be seen. Whether enjoyed by the wearer or an admiring other, jewelry is an accessory that is worn to enhance the appearance or style of the person wearing it. Demure jewelry has its place, certainly. There’s definitely something to be said for less is more. However, most of us probably wear jewelry to make some sort of statement, whether about the wearer or the setting or circumstances. For those of us who are truly jewelry fanatics, though, the more, the sparklier, the bigger, the better! Can I get a witness?

Aside from gemstones, one way to enhance a piece of metal jewelry is to give it some sort of surface treatment. Metal surface treatments can consist of everything from color to cloisonne. There are two surface treatments that I’m writing about today, and interestingly, each is at opposite ends of the bling spectrum. One is diamond-cutting, the other, matte finishing.

I’ve written about diamond cutting in previous posts, but to review, diamond-cutting is when a diamond-tipped tool is used to make micro-cuts across the surface of the metal, shaving off a thin layer, almost like chiseling away tiny chips, which creates many more angles that reflect light. Diamond cutting can be used sparingly, to add a little something eye-catching to emphasize a design point, or it can be done in an all-over pattern, so as to create the illusion of tiny diamonds, or to elevate the flash factor by orders of magnitude.

To each his or her own, though, as not everyone is a fan of diamond-cutting. Some like their jewelry a little quieter, and precious metal purists love nothing more than the natural, un compromised gleam of high-polished metal. I love it, though, because when used strategically, diamond-cutting can take an otherwise plain or simple design and really amp things up. Plus, I love anything that sparkles, and when diamond-cutting is used liberally on a piece of jewelry, it’s sparkle city.

Another favorite surface treatment that I love is matte finishing. Now, after all I just said about loving sparkle, this may seem surprising. Matte finishing is a treatment that “scuffs” or buffs the shine from the surface of a piece of metal. For lack of a better way to describe it, matte finishing dulls the metal shine. That may not sound pretty, but when done right, and on the right piece of jewelry, a matte finish is sophisticated and elegant. It’s not over-the-top, it doesn’t work hard to be noticed, and it’s unusual.

Matte or satin finishing, also sometimes called a Florentine finish, are each types of treatments that can change the surface texture of metal, while still emphasizing the luminous quality of fine jewelry. These surface treatments are applied using either hand tools, such as a brush or wire, or achieved by a chemical process that creates a non-reflective finish. Instead of a shine, the metal seems to glow. It’s beautiful.

When both diamond-cutting is used along with satin finishing, the effect is stunning. Imagine a softly glowing, matte finish sterling silver bangle bracelet with a diamond-cut pattern of vines and flowers winding its way around the wrist. Or a pendant where a glittering gem is set into a matte backdrop, so that the satin metal finish ensures all eyes will snap to attention on that gorgeous gem, because there is no other glittery embellishment to compete with the stone. Using both diamond-cutting and satin finishing on the same piece insures visual interest, it creates contrast, and can emphasize a design element that might otherwise go unnoticed. On the other hand, I’ve seen designs that have been so beautifully diamond cut, you would swear the surface was covered with tiny pave diamonds. The technique is especially illusory and effective when done on white metal.

These and other types of surface alterations can make a chameleon of jewelry. Changing the look of the metal can take what would otherwise be an inexpensive piece of either fashion or fine jewelry and turn it into a piece that looks like it belongs in a higher tax bracket. Conversely, these same techniques can transform a modern design into what appears to be an heirloom from decades long ago. Look for more posts on metal surface treatments in upcoming posts, so stay with me and sparkle on!

Laura

Since the previous post here on the Sparkle On blog was an introduction to the most common types of chain, it seemed a natural progression to write next about the way jewelry crafters hang something decorative from it. There are so many clever ways to embellish a pretty chain. Some are “in line,” meaning the design flow is not broken by a detour from the chain. Links, bars, beads, or focals are part of the continuum that is the chain itself. Other adornments for chain include pendants, slides, floating charms, pearls, and so on. When a focal embellishment is dangling from a chain, rather than being affixed to it, the component used to hang the pendant from the chain is called a bail.

A pendant bail allows for a charm, locket, gemstone, or other embellishment to move freely along the chain. A pendant bail slips over the chain, as opposed to being fixed or soldered to it. Click to tweet this! Although usually made of metal, a bail can be crafted out of just about anything. You may see pendant bails in a variety of shapes, such as a teardrop, oval, bead, or even a short length of tube.

There are also different ways a bail attaches to a pendant or charm. If the focal has a ring incorporated into the design, or if a jump ring can be connected to the pendant, then the ends of the bail can be crimped, or pinched together to close it tightly around the ring, or it can be soldered closed for extra security. If the bail itself has a hanging ring attached, such as with a tube bail, the pendant can simply be secured to the bail by way of a jump ring, ensuring the pendant lays flat against the skin, always facing front.

Most bails are tiny and innocuous, so as not to compete with the beautiful gemstones hanging from it. However, bails can also be decorative. The more elaborate the overall design of a piece of jewelry, the more elaborate the components used to craft the piece may be. A pendant bail can be embellished with gemstones, oxidation, laser engraving or stamping, cutwork, wire-wrapping, or diamond-cutting. If you are crafting your own jewelry, a bail should either disappear into the design, or be eye-catching and thematic.

Keep in mind that any component from which to hang a pendant is just one tiny contact point, the weak link, so to speak, and it can fail. A bail is one of those jewelry components that you don’t pay attention to until you discover that you’ve lost the pendant from your necklace chain. Then, you may notice the ends of the bail have come apart, or it has broken. If you want to wear a pendant that originally hung from an inherited or vintage necklace, or if you want to interchange it witth other chains for a new look, then it’s worth having it attached to a more heavy-duty type of bail that can stand up to a lot of wear. Don’t leave an heirloom medallion, pendant, or locket hanging from a mere jump ring. Have your pendant re-set and soldered to a sturdy bail so you’ll be sure to get years of enjoyment from your treasure.

A bail is one of those jewelry parts and pieces that you normally don’t think about, so you would have no reason to know what it’s called. Now that you do, you are better able to identify differences in one type of necklace style. Wear it in good health, and sparkle on!

Laura

Chain jewelry has existed for millennia. The earliest chain was for attaching, securing, and pulling loads, whether by sailors or farmers, and was made of hemp rope. Early mariners soon learned, however, that rope easily rots, molders, and breaks, and did not stand up well under the stresses of saltwater and the demands of ocean-going tasks. Here, from the BBC’s “A History of the World” program, is an example of an early ships anchor cable chain link with stud.

As an aside, if you have not subscribe to the BBC podcast, “A History of the World in 100 Objects,” you must. It is one of the best audio series I’ve ever heard, it’s brilliantly produced, well narrated, and packed with wonderful historical tidbits that will fascinate you. Go to iTunes or Google Play right now and subscribe. Seriously, go do this thing. I’ll wait.

Metal chain has been around for centuries BC. According to Wikipedia, one of the earliest known examples of metal chain is use of rings linked together to draw up a bucket of well water. It is said Cleopatra wore chain jewelry, and ancient royalty has been found buried along with chain jewelry in Egyptian tombs. It’s safe to say that our girl Cleopatra was definitely on the cutting edge of all things fashion and style, agreed? Makeup on fleek, clothing and accessories on trend. Or, more accurately, WAS trend. her modern-day equivalent would have to be Coco Chanel, in my view. In the 1930’s, Coco wore chain jewelry made of base metal and faux pearls that draped to her waist, signaling that even working women of the great depression could afford to look stylish. Since then, chain has been used to create jewelry of every imaginable variation, using innumerable types of materials. There are many jewelry chain styles, some of which have more than one name. There is no standard naming convention for jewelry chain, and, in some cases, chain style names are trademarks of their respective designers or design houses. So, choosing a chain by name can sometimes be confusing. Let’s start by describing a few of the most common styles, and we will continue to build upon our chain styles glossary in future posts.

The easy to understand cable chain is one of the most common types of chain. It consists of a series of equally sized round or elongated oval links that are connected together. The links can be fine wire or heavy gauge metal. the size of the links can be just a few millimeters or a few centimeters. Cable chain is strong, and because of the open links, an easy chain from which to hang charms or pendants. Here at Elegant Insights, all of our copper and brass chain is a variation of cable chain, either a 4mm or 8mm width, depending upon which of our designs you’ve chosen. Variations of the cable chain include the use of pairs of links connected to another pair of links, referred to as a double-link chain, and other variations can consist of links in all sorts of shapes, such as triangle or square-shaped links.

When cable chain links are twisted so that the links lie flat, the chain is called a curb link. Curb chain is usually found in heavier gauges, and is frequently used in men’s jewelry. As the links are flattened, there’s lots of surface area to catch the light, making the curb a beautiful sleek chain style. Further, curb chain can be beveled or diamond-cut, creating lots of varying angles and edges from which to reflect light. For an example of a diamond-cut, beveled curb chain, see our touch of Authenticity bracelets, or our Techlace, shown below. Click to tweet this! The chain we use is about one-half inch wide, is very heavy, made of stainless steel, and is sparkly and stunning.

Another simple chain style is called a rolo link. Remember those paper chains you used to make in grade school, where you glued the ends of strips of construction paper, then connected them together to drape around the Christmas tree? My brother, now well into adulthood, made one of those paper chains in kindergarten, and it is still in one piece, well, one fragment, anyway. To this day, my mom still tenderly places it on the holiday tree. Hey, it’s a childhood heirloom. Moms get this. Those construction-paper chains look just like rolo link chain. Well, sort of.

A rolo link chain is a series of uniform sized, flattened round links that look more like links of ribbon than rounded wire. Each link is connected at a 90 degree angle to the next, so that every link faces in the opposite direction of the next and previous, providing many different angles for light to reflect off the pretty metal links. Since the individual links are usually smaller in length, but wider as well as flat, or slightly concaved, surface treatments are sometimes applied to each individual link, such as oxidation, hammering, stamping, or laser engraving, all of which create visually interesting patterns when combined in a linked-together whole. The rolo link is also sometimes called belcher chain.

The cable, curb, and rolo link chains are three examples of the most common type of jewelry chain, each perfect for hanging pendants or attaching charms. When in larger links made of heavier gauge metal, these chains are also pretty to wear on their own, or layered with other chain design necklaces to create visual interest, and plenty of style. So, to all you Cleopatras and Cocos out there, sparkle on!

Laura

Since we are all just recovering from ringing in the new year, I thought I’d make this post all about rings. See what I did there? Specifically, I want to share a bit of info about ring settings. When most people think about rings, they either think of an engagement or wedding ring, which typically features a large stone in the center of a band, or a fashion ring, which may be unadorned, or have a variety of gems, pearls, or other embellishments on the band. Today, I’m going to talk about a couple of different types of ring settings.

The word “setting” can be used when describing any jewelry that is embellished with some sort of stone. A setting is simply the way in which a gemstone is mounted, or set, into the ring band. The setting used can vary depending upon the style of the ring, as well as the type and shape of the gem. The setting can be part of the body of the ring itself, for example, when the shoulders, or sides, of the ring rise up to meet the center stone, or the setting can be a separate structure that is designed to maximize the brilliance and beauty of a gem.

The most common type of setting is called a prong setting. A prong is a tiny piece of wire that holds the stone in place. When the gem is dropped into position, the tines, or prongs, are bent over the edges of the stone in such a way as to secure the gem, but not obscure the beauty of the stone. Diamonds, which sparkle when viewed from every angle, benefit from a prong setting, because the tiny prongs barely cover any part of the stone. Prong settings allow lots of light to enter into a transparent gem, which bends and bounces around, thanks to the many facets. The light is then reflected back out, ensuring plenty of glittery goodness. A prong setting can consist of two, four, six, or even more prongs, depending upon the shape and size of the stone and ring style. The prongs are evenly distributed around the stone, and if the gem is a square cut, the prongs are usually placed at the corners, so as to protect them from chipping.

Prongs can also be formed into different shapes. A bead prong may be a tiny metal bead at the end of a piece of wire,or it can be a teardrop bead, where the widest portion extends over the top edge of the stone to hold it in place. Prongs can also be decorative. A prong may be fashioned to look like a leaf, a heart, or any shape that enhances the overall theme of the ring. There are also prongs that can be crafted so as to fit around the corners of a large square-cut stone, so that instead of a simple piece of wire bent over the corners, the prongs are shaped so that they can wrap around the corners at the correct 90 degree angle, to protect the stone from every direction. Think of the bumper guards on the corners of your phone, for example. Double-prong settings are when two tiny prongs are used at each position. There’s even a single prong setting, a specialty design where a combination of the mounting structure, a single prong or wire, and the tension and balance of the gem sets the stone into place. This type of setting has also been called an invisible setting, or an illusion setting, because it creates the impression the gem is simply floating atop the ring.

Prong settings are most often used when setting a precious or semi-precious gemstone, where the most beautiful properties of the stone, such as the color and sparkle, would be showcased best in a setting which allows for lots of light to refract and reflect. If an opaque stone is being set, other types of settings work well. Turquoise, onyx, lapis, rose quartz, and pearls are examples of opaque gems. Since these stones do not benefit by the penetration of light, other types of settings are used to show off an opaque gemstone’s color properties.

One of the most common types of settings for opaque gems is called a bezel setting. A bezel is a strip of metal that is wrapped around the stone and bent over the top edges, securing it into place. It is a smooth setting, which allows the stone to be incorporated into the design, flush with the metal, as opposed to setting the stone on top of the band. Southwestern, Native American, and Mexican jewelry designs frequently use bezel settings. Bezel settings also allow for worry-free wear, because there is nothing to catch or snag on fabric such as a prong, which could bend out of place, and loosen the stone. Because bezels settings can look sleek and clean, and can stand up well to wear and tear, this type of setting is often used in men’s jewelry. Bezel settings are a great way to protect a stone while showcasing the size, vivid color, and shape of a gem.

Do you have a favorite type of setting? There are many ways in which a gemstone can be set into a ring, and these are just two. I’ll be describing a couple of my personal favorites in a future post, so be sure to keep your eye out for them, if rings are your thing. Please subscribe to the blog by using the form at the bottom of the page so you don’t miss a post, and sparkle on!

Laura

Happy new year! While many of us resolve to achieve new goals or to make lifestyle changes in the year ahead, sometimes the conclusion of the holiday season can simply provide an excuse to focus on putting the past behind us and embracing a fresh new outlook. Or, maybe you’re just suffering from the winter doldrums, and are looking for ways to bring a bit of sunshine into your days. Need a little inspiration? Incorporate a pretty new color into your home, your wardrobe, your cosmetics, or your accessories.

Each year, the widely acknowledged color authority, Pantone (www.pantone.com), declares a particular color or group of colors to be the “color of the year.” In 2018, the color of the year was a shade of purple, referred to as Ultraviolet. In 2017, it was called Greenery. In 2016 Pantone chose two colors – Rose quartz and Serenity, and in 2015, the color of the year was called Marsala, and on it goes. For twenty years, the Pantone Color Institute has been influencing interior decor and furnishings, fashion, and even industrial design. According to the Pantone web site, the colors of the year are chosen by taking into consideration global trends, color psychology, and factors such as social media influences, popular travel destinations, art, culture and lifestyle trends, and even sporting events that capture global attention.

This year, the Pantone color of the year is called Living Coral. Here is the short description of the color of the year as per the Pantone web site:

“An animating and life-affirming coral hue with a golden undertone that energizes and enlivens with a softer edge.”

Pantone offers fabric swatches and color chips to designers who want to incorporate the color of the year, along with coordinating and contrasting shades, for purchase on their web site. They also offer some pretty slick marketing copy that describes not only the color, but the emotions that can be evoked by its use. As an example, here is a snippet from the web site: :Living Coral embraces us with warmth and nourishment to provide comfort and buoyancy in our continually shifting environment. In reaction to the onslaught of digital technology and social media increasingly embedding into daily life, we are seeking authentic and immersive experiences that enable connection and intimacy. Sociable and spirited, the engaging nature of PANTONE Living Coral welcomes and encourages lighthearted activity. Symbolizing our innate need for optimism and joyful pursuits, PANTONE Living Coral embodies our desire for playful expression.”

That’s asking an awful lot of a color, but there it is.

As it happens, the color coral, as well as the natural substance coral, makes a lovely embellishment in jewelry, whether used as the primary tone or a vibrant splash of accent color. Coral encompasses a range of shades, from a deep red with an orange undertone to a pastel peach with a tinge of pink. Coral is a cross between pink and orange, or a blend of red and orange. A more vibrant, tropical hue is achieved by mixing a fuchsia with vivid orange, or for a shade that’s more subdued, a combination of soft pink and muted peach creates a color that’s closer to the color of salmon, or the naturally occurring angelskin coral, which is a beautiful quiet color. Coral is one of those nuanced shades that combine two secondary colors, one a blend of red and white, the other, a mix of yellow and red. The variations resulting from the attenuation of tint, hue and saturation make coral one of those colors that can be both stimulating and soothing.

Don’t be confused by the interchangeable use of the word for the color coral and the sea creature coral. Actual living coral, the undersea variety found along the shores of Australia, for example, can be found in a rainbow of colors. White, red, pink, yellow, and blue are among the colors you’ll find growing on reefs all over the underwater world. However, it is important to remember that natural coral is a marine animal, and is subject to some regulation in the United States by the United States Fish & Wildlife Service (USFWS) and U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP). If you are using coral in your jewelry, take a moment to read this article by the Jeweler’s Vigilance Committee (jvclegal.org):

Failure to ensure that your products, and those of your suppliers, are compliant with requirements pertaining to the import and use of coral can result in severe penalties. Some material is prohibited altogether, so take the time to educate yourself before purchasing natural coral.

If you do incorporate either the color Living Coral or the natural substance coral into your home furnishings or jewelry designs, you’ll love the vibrant colors and freeform shapes. It’s the 2019 color of the year, so you’ll see it everywhere. It’s a truly beautiful, flattering shade, though, so if you plan to wear it, sparkle on!

Laura

About the author:

Laura Legendary is a speaker, author, and educator specializing in disability awareness, accessibility, advocacy, and assistive technology. She is the owner of Elegant Insights Braille Creations, a handcrafted collection of jewelry and accessories embossed in braille. Go here to shop the boutique.

While I’m working to build a readership for the Sparkle On blog, I’ll remind you periodically about our mission statement, so that for anyone who happens to randomly stop by and peek at an article, they will understand why I make reference to details, or provide extensive descriptions of jewelry features that would be obvious to anyone who glanced at a photo. So, here is the reminder: The Sparkle On blog is written specifically for readers who may be new to jewelry, and/or who may be blind or visually impaired. I’ve said this before but it bears repetition – a picture may be worth a thousand words, but not for someone with vision loss. The purpose of the extensive descriptions is to enable readers to feel confident about making a jewelry purchase, which can be intimidating for anyone, but to walk into a retail jewelry store to buy a gift without the ability to clearly see what’s in the velvet-lined, glass display cases can be a little nerve-wracking. As a consequence of low vision, along with not feeling particularly knowledgeable about jewelry terminology, some people may not feel the least bit comfortable buying an expensive jewelry item either online or at retail. If these articles can be of some assistance as you venture forth to choose a pretty bauble for yourself or someone you love, then the goal is achieved.

With that in mind, today I’m going to describe another of the iconic pieces of jewelry that has become a category unto itself. Have you ever heard of the Cartier “Love” bracelet? Certainly, you’ve heard of the legendary design house of Cartier, which you probably already associate with exquisite, luxury offerings. Yes, you are correct. That Cartier.

The famous love bracelet is a piece of jewelry designed in 1969 by Aldo Cipullo for Cartier. It is a flat bangle bracelet studded with screws. Yes, exactly like the screws in your toolbox, except not at all. The bracelet was originally crafted of 18k yellow gold, although it was soon offered in 18k rose gold, 18k white gold, and also in platinum. Later variations included diamonds studded throughout the bracelet, and more recently, pave diamonds. As is typical with popular pieces of jewelry that become iconic, symbolic of luxury, or in this case, symbolic of an unbreakable commitment of love, it is almost immediately copied. The famous Cartier love bracelet has been mimicked by low-end jewelry brands and counterfeiters alike.

The novelty of the love bracelet is the locking mechanism, which requires a screwdriver to unfasten, and once slipped onto the wrist, the screwdriver is used to lock the bracelet on so that it cannot be removed without said screwdriver. The screwdriver itself has also been made into a necklace, with the idea that the bracelet wearer is “locked,” or committed to the wearer of the screwdriver “key,” symbolizing an unbreakable bond. Pretty romantic, no?

As the design of the original love bracelet was copied and changed just enough to avoid violating the original trademark, it became known by other names, such as the “nailshead bracelet,” or the “screwhead bracelet.” If your love bracelet does not have the Cartier hallmark, along with the gold fineness stamp, does not have the weight or the flawless execution of all parts and design elements, or come with a certificate of authenticity in an actual
Cartier box, yours is likely a counterfeit, or low-end copy. If you have enough eyesight to magnify a photo, there are some good pictures online comparing the real thing to the fakes. Also, when written in the font designed for the bracelet, the word love appears with a vertical line through the letter “o,” which is a nod to the appearance of a screw. The original bracelets were sold for over $6,000 back in the 1970’s, and it has retained its value. If you want one, I’d go directly to a Cartier boutique to ensure you are getting the real deal. If you have inherited one, or purchased one at auction, there are a number of ways it can be authenticated, and I’d start by bringing it to a Cartier salon.

If you are fortunate enough to be presented with one of the iconic Cartier Love bracelets, then you are abundantly blessed, indeed, as you not only have a beautiful piece of jewelry to wear, but also a devoted admirer presenting it. No one drops that kind of coin on a bracelet that is literally locked onto the wrist unless they really like you a lot. Lucky you! Sparkle on!

Laura

When it comes to jewelry, what could be simpler than a necklace? Wrap it around your neck or drop it on over your head, connect the clasp, and get on with your day. You don’t have to think about it until it’s time to take it off, right? Sure, unless you are wearing a necklace that keeps getting caught in your collar, or the pendant drops below the edge of the neckline inside your shirt and you spend the day pulling it out every ten minutes. Or, the chain rides up against the base of your throat and you spend the day pulling it back down every ten minutes. Or, every time you lean over, your necklace gets tangled up inn your jacket zipper or blouse button, the knob of your desk drawer, the ID badge, headset, microphone, pin, or name tag you’re wearing on your lapel. A necklace can actually be one of the more challenging pieces of jewelry to wear, because there are so many different chain lengths, you have to take a number of factors into consideration when you make your jewelry selection, such as the type of garment you plan to wear, the type of neckline, and whether or not the necklace is going to be in constant contact with your skin or the fabric. Another variable that can affect how the necklace wears is the thickness or gauge of the chain links or beads. A strand of pearls or beads that are larger in diameter can mean the necklace falls differently than a fine gauge chain would, even if the overall length is the same. Wearing the wrong length necklace can be really irritating, and can add a source of annoyance to your busy work day if you end up continuously fidgeting with it. If you are a jewelry collector, and have lots of pieces in your jewelry box from which to choose, then you may already be well aware that your favorite heart pendant isn’t going to work with your favorite top, because the neckline of the shirt is too close to the length of the necklace, which slips underneath the neckline, and you spend the day pulling it back out. What’s the point of wearing it if it’s just going to keep slipping below the neckline of your top, never to be seen?

Conversely, you may have thought your choker-length bead station necklace would be perfect with your mock-neck cashmere sweater, only to discover throughout the day that the clasp keeps snagging on the back of your neck, and that the fabric is too thick to allow the necklace to hang freely, and the necklace gets tucked up under the fold of the turtleneck, making it uncomfortably tight around your neck. Granted, these are first-world problems, but you certainly didn’t bargain for being driven crazy by your necklace when you got ready for work that day. By your boss, yes, your jewelry, no.

So how do you know what necklace length is right for the outfit you want to wear? Here are some standard length measurements that may help you to group your chain or bead necklaces together in such a way as to make choosing the best one to coordinate with your outfit effortless. After all, you have other things to focus on than tugging at your jewelry during your workday, job interview, or hot date.

14-15 inch length is a choker length. This length wraps around and sits high on the neck, above the collarbones.
16 inch length falls right at the base of the neck on most people, and if a pendant is attached, the pendant will nestle right in the hollow of the throat. If you want your pendant to peek out from the little “v” created by the opening at the top of a button-down shirt, this is a great length.
18 inch length will fall over the collarbones, and fall below the hollow of the throat. This is probably the most common necklace length. It may interfere with higher necklines, such as a boat neck or jewel neckline, so use it when wearing a V-neck or higher scoop neck blouse.
20 inch length necklaces are long enough to fall over the edge of a crew neck, with a little room to spare. For men, this is a good standard length for wearing a chain or pendant that will show over the top of most T-shirts.
22 inches long is perfect if you are wearing a plunging neckline such as a low V neck or scoop neck. The pendant will sit right at mid-chest for most, yet not slip below the fabric of the neckline.
24 inch lengths will usually fall somewhere close to the top edge of your bra or undergarment, and is an ideal length if you want to wear a spiritual medallion, cross, or other pendant you prefer to keep close to your skin. It’s also a great fashion length for when you want to wear a turtleneck, or a shirt with a more elaborate collar, as you can tuck the chain under the fold of the collar at the back of the neck. Also, 24 inches is the length at which most people can put on a necklace over their head without having to fuss with a clasp, so if you just did your nails, have manual dexterity issues, arthritis, or have no time in the morning and need to grab and go, this is the length to choose.
30 inch lengths are great for wearing a bead strand or chain you want to wear long and dramatic.
36 inch lengths are typically long pearl strands, and can also be comfortably worn doubled around the neck, either wrapped around twice and secured with the clasp, or doubled up using a pearl enhancer clip.

Obviously, depending upon your height/build, your mileage may vary. Taller people might find that an 18 inch length, which is what is typically sold most in jewelry retail, is too tight, or rubs against your neck in an uncomfortable way. Do a little experimenting with a variety of shirts and necklaces to find your best length. There are also plenty of choices in chain lengths that are in between any of the above “standard” lengths, which may suit you better. Instead of wasting time searching for the perfect necklace length, though, which may be hard to find, consider using a chain extender to add length to a necklace you already own. Chain extenders can be a very handy fashion tool.

One of the best pieces of advice I can give for putting together an outfit, especially if it’s an outfit you plan to wear to a special event, is to conduct a wear test. I would even more strongly recommend this if you will be wearing something new, whether garment or jewelry. Finding out at the last minute that your jewelry doesn’t work with your outfit can add a great deal of stress to your need to get to, or enjoy, your event.

If you intend to do a dry run of your outfit for a job interview, if you are in a wedding, or if you plan to have pictures taken, be sure to include all the jewelry you want to wear in the dry run. You might learn a couple of really important pieces of information by doing this that would have caused a problem throughout the event, had you not known in advance. Maybe those shoulder-duster earrings keep getting caught in the embellishments of the sweater you wanted to wear. Or the bracelet clasp catches on the lace at the cuff of your sleeve. Or maybe that super stylish, oversized pendant hangs exactly over top of the super stylish, oversized buttons on your blouse, and every time you move, you hear click, click, click. Not good. Remember, you always want to keep the focus on you, your witty bon mots, your beautiful face, your vocational achievements,rather than create distraction by constantly fiddling with troublesome jewelry. You want you to shine through. That’s how you sparkle on!

Laura

Since we’re rocketing towards Christmas, I thought it might be fun to do a little research on the most extravagant jewelry gifts ever presented. I ran across a number of articles on the subject of over-the-top gift-giving throughout history, so I thought I’d just link to the articles here. Whether jewelry, real estate, or monuments, these gifts are not exactly stocking-stuffers.

Note: I know posting “raw” links is not an attractive way to post an article, but since these links will be taking you off-site, away to advertiser land, I decided to leave the actual link intact instead of burying it under text. I found no malware here, but lots of ads, which you may consider to be the same thing.

Anyway, if you enjoy living vicariously through the rich and famous, have fun with these silly articles. Kind of makes every gift I’ve ever given seem pretty pathetic, but the good news is that none of my gifts will ever be the subject of a contested divorce litigation. There’s something to be grateful for.

15 of the greatest gifts of all time – by Mental Floss

mentalfloss.com/article/29559/historical-gift-guide-15-greatest-gifts-history-presents

From Forbes, the top 10 most expensive gifts of all time:

www.forbes.com/sites/christianbarker/2016/12/02/the-top-ten-most-expensive-gifts-of-all-time/#3e1f81ba3b07

From the sublime to the ridiculous, well, it’s all ridiculous, here is a list of The 15 Most Expensive, Luxurious, and Ridiculous Gifts Hollywood’s Elite Have Ever Given:

The 15 Most Expensive, Luxurious, and Ridiculous Gifts Hollywood’s Elite Have Ever Given

So, if you are of the mind that it’s the thought that counts, I’m sure Dad will adore this year’s tie, and your BFF will love her foot massager. Merry merry, and sparkle on!

Laura

There are lots of ways to attach jewelry parts and pieces to a chain, a bead strand, or to connect one part to another. Depending upon the desired effect, a connection can provide flexibility and movement, keep a focal point facing in one particular direction, can provide strength, or can enable a visually seamless and attractive transition between design elements. Most of the time, the way one jewelry component is attached to another is by way of a jump ring.

A jump ring is a tiny ring, almost always made of metal. When I say tiny, I mean a jump ring can be as small as just 2mm, 4mm, or 8mm. These minuscule rings can be purchased from a jewelry supplier, or they can be handcrafted. Jump rings can also be open, meaning they are literally an open ring that requires closing after it is used to attach a part, or it can be closed, which means the ring is soldered closed, and the part to which it is being attached has an opening through which to thread the jump ring. Jump rings can begin their life as open, and with the skills of a practiced hand, can be closed by working the ends of the ring so that it forms a closed circle, or it can be touched with a tiny bit of metal solder to close the ends. Creating a seamless, tightly closed jump ring ensures that whatever bead, clasp, or embellishment is being attached will remain securely fixed to the chain, or to whatever it is being connected.

Jump rings are usually made of plain wire, but they can also be decorative. I’ve used diamond-cut jump rings in designs for Elegant Insights, just to add a tiny bit of sparkle that catches the light in a really subtle way, and I’ve also used jump rings that look like flowers, snowflakes, and rope designs to enhance a theme or motif. Jump rings can be tricky, though. Because they are such a tiny jewelry component, they are not usually very strong, and they are used for a big job – that of keeping the piece of jewelry securely closed, or to keep a pendant or pearl bead safely connected. That’s asking an awful lot out of a little wire ring smaller than a quarter of an inch! That’s why the best way to use a jump ring is to solder it closed once the two jewelry parts are connected. There are also what are called “locking” jump rings, and these have a tiny tab at one end of the ring, and a notch at the other, which enables the two ends to snap together and stay locked closed. The more elaborate the jump rings used to craft a piece of jewelry, however, the more expensive the end result, as most jewelry designs require many jump rings. Jump rings are a very tiny component that can make a big difference in the overall success of a design, including whether or not the piece stays together. Jump rings are usually the weak link in a piece of jewelry, and in some cases, it’s meant to be. Think of a breakaway dog collar, and how it’s meant to come apart if subjected to stress, so as to guard against a choking or constraint hazard, should the dog become ensnared by the collar. The same is true when wearing a bracelet, when, for example, the jewelry gets caught, and instead of the entire bead strand or chain breaking apart, the jump ring that attaches the clasp to the chain gives way, preserving the overall integrity of the expensive aspect of the jewelry, thus only requiring the connecting jump ring to be replaced. That’s an easy and inexpensive repair.

Now that you have a strong attachment to jump rings, sparkle on!

Laura

Jewelry clasps come in all shapes, sizes, metals, and styles. Some clasps are purely functional, such as the spring ring clasp, which I wrote about here.

Other clasps have a very specific function, such as magnetic clasps, which make it much easier to connect the ends of jewelry chain for people who have trouble managing the tiny mechanisms of standard clasps. Still other clasps are so decorative, they become part of the design itself, and one would be hard-pressed to recognize it as a clasp at all. today, though, I’m going to describe one of the more mundane variety of clasps, another of the more functional, and among the most commonly used, types of clasps…the lobster claw.

Believe it or not, despite the funny name, the lobster claw has its namesake in an actual lobster’s claw. Unless you’ve had a lobster claw on your dinner plate, you may have never seen one, but the description is apt. A lobster’s claw is elongated, somewhat oval or teardrop shaped, and opens by way of a joint that allows for a lobster to open the end of the claw and pinch it around whatever it is the creature is trying to grasp.

A lobster claw can be similar to a spring ring in that the mechanism that opens and closes the clasp is a spring inside the tubing of the clasp that is compressed or expanded by a tiny trigger that the wearer pulls back, usually with a fingernail. Once opened, the clasp can be connected with a loop or ring at the other end of a chain, securing it closed. Lobster claw clasps are usually larger and can be heavier than a spring ring, and because of the oval or elongated shape, they work well in most jewelry designs because the clasp is more in line with the chain or bead strand. Unfortunately, lobster claws suffer from the same fatal flaw as the spring ring, though, as the spring inside the mechanism can “pop” or weaken, and the clasp can cease to function properly. Broken clasps are probably the greatest cause of jewelry loss. Once the spring inside the clasp breaks, the clasp can get stuck open, and the chain can slip off unnoticed.

another similarity to the spring ring type of clasp is that lobster claw clasps are inexpensive, and they are found in an abundant array of sizes and metal colors. Lobster claw clasps are commonplace, easily understood, and used throughout the jewelry industry, both in fashion as well as fine jewelry. No doubt you have at least one in your own jewelry collection. If you are visually impaired and can magnify the photos below, compare the spring ring clasp with the lobster claw depicted below it.

Lobster claws…they’re not just for dinner anymore. *Groan*

Sparkle on!

Laura