Gemstones, whether clear or colorful, opaque or transparent, can be cut into myriad shapes, each with a plethora of pleasing optical properties that enhance the setting as well as the stone. In fact, due to the crystalline structure of some gems, there are preferred shapes that reveal the best balance of color and weight, as they show off the most beautiful aspects of color consistency and spectacular sparkle.
It is important to point out first thing that there is a distinction between the shape of a gem and the cut of a gem. The shape is the outline, the silhouette, the general form of a gem. The cut refers to how it is faceted. The most common diamond shape is the round, although there are many other geometric shapes, such as the rectangle, octagon, triangle, oval, marquise, and pear shape. There are also many specialty shapes, such as a heart, star, briolet, crescent, and whatever a skilled gem cutter can dream up. Here, we are going to focus on the square shape, along with the various cuts that can completely alter the visual properties of a square-shaped gem, changing how the gem presents.
A square shaped stone is exactly what you would expect: Four equivalent sides meeting at four corners at right angles. This shape does offer a few variations, however, for those who find the square to be too harsh, or too geometric. The Asscher cut, also called square emerald cut, for example, is a hybrid of a princess and an emerald cut. This cut was developed by the Asscher brothers of Holland in 1902. By using a step cut instead of a brilliant cut, the emphasis is placed on the gem clarity, rather than the sparkle.
A cushion cut is a square shaped gem with rounded corners, resembling a pillow or sofa cushion. It is considered a traditional cut, although there are some variations where the sides are gently bowed, or puffed out, not quite round but not strictly a geometric square, either. A cushion cut gem is a great way to get the feel of a square shape, but with a modified, softened look.
Of all the square shapes, you’ve probably most often heard of the princess cut. It is a relatively recent cut, crated by Ygal Perlman, Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz in 1979, although the earliest version, called the profile cut, was crafted by Arpad Nagy of London, in 1961. What makes the princess cut so attractive, especially in a diamond, is that it is a square shape that is faceted like a brilliant cut round diamond, with many more facets than a traditional round, which makes the princess cut a major sparkler.
Another variation of a square shaped gem is the radiant cut. It is a combination of a princess and a cushion cut. This is another more recent cut, created in 1977 by Henry Grossbard. It offers the contemporary proportions of a square by taking an octagon shape and cutting off the corners, combined with the fire of a brilliant cut, which has many more facets than a traditional cushion cut gem.
There are many faceting patterns that are used to bring out the unique aspects of gemstones, and some of these are even branded…trademarked by the jewelry houses that introduced them. Whether a stone is a traditional geometric shape or a specialty shape, it can be step cut, brilliant cut, baguette cut, trapezoid cut, or any number of other faceting techniques used to enhance the coveted color or fire of a gem. When shopping, look for the various stone shape and faceting combinations available and ask about the number of facets and type of cut. Also, ask to see comparisons between stones of a similar size, carat weight, quality, or color. This will help you to make an informed choice about the perfect stone shape and cut for you, so that you can sparkle on!
LL
Laura Legendary is a blind jewelry designer, and owner of Elegant Insights Braille Creations. She is also a speaker and author, specializing in advocacy, accessibility, and assistive technology. Link to Laura on LinkedIn!