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Recipes for a beautiful metal cake: How alloys are jewelry allies

When most of us think of a metal such as gold or silver, cake batter doesn’t usually leap to mind. We don’t think of metals as being a mixture of ingredients, a metal “recipe” that, when the elements are combined, produce the delicious, gleaming, jewelry confection we wear around our neck or wrist. It is common, though, for jewelry metals to be joined with other substances to increase strength, durability, scratch-resistance, or to improve the color. when two or more metals are mixed together, it is called an alloy. The dictionary defines the noun alloy as 1: A substance composed of two or more metals, or 2: a less costly metal mixed with a more valuable one, or 3: A determination of quality or fineness. Here are some examples of alloys:

Steel – Steel is an alloy of iron and carbon, and is often combined with other metal elements. there are many different kinds of steel “recipes,” the one most familiar to many of us is probably stainless steel, which is used for flatware, tools, knives, fencing, appliances, surgical instruments, and jewelry. Other types of steel may be used in hulls of ocean-going vessels, concrete supports for bridge or building construction, or for underground piping. Stainless steel can be polished to a brilliant shine that will not tarnish, and because of the composition, it makes an ideal sterling silver substitute for people who have metal sensitivities.

Bronze – One of the earliest alloys known, bronze is a dark brown color, and is made up of 75 percent copper and 25 percent tin or other metals. Bronze enjoyed a recent resurgence in the jewelry industry, as manufacturers found a way to lighten the mix, turning the bronze a lovely blush pink shade, making it a low-cost substitute for rose gold.

Brass – Brass is made of copper and zinc. It is a bright yellow color. A brass alloy can also include tin, lead, or aluminum. In some states, such as California, there are prohibitions against using brass or other metals containing lead, especially when used in jewelry. Brass is also used in home decor, plumbing fixtures, and musical instruments.

Titanium – Growing in popularity for use in jewelry, titanium is a silver colored metal that is very strong. It is also noted for having the highest tensile strength to density ratio of any other metal, and is very lightweight. Metals added to titanium include aluminum, vanadium, and iron. Because it is both strong and lightweight, as well as corrosion resistant, titanium is used for many industrial applications. Since it holds up well under lots of daily wear and tear, titanium has become popular, especially in men’s jewelry, as a preferred metal for wedding bands.

Sterling silver – Pure silver, also called fine silver, is very soft, and is seldom used for jewelry, at least, not as the primary metal. If pure silver is used in jewelry, it may be used for an intricate design detail or an embellishment, but without alloying, pure silver is easily damaged. Sterling silver is a grade of fineness that consists of 92.5 percent silver and 7.5 percent copper. Because such a small percentage of other metal is needed to create the alloy, almost any other metal can be added, but the combination that best results in strength, durability, and high shine, without affecting the color, is silver mixed with copper.

Gold – Depending upon the fineness and desired color, 10kt, 14kt, or 18kt yellow, white, or rose gold, many “recipes” or combinations of metals are used to create a gold alloy. For example, 18kt yellow gold is usually 75 percent gold, 12.5 percent copper and 12.5 percent silver. However, palladium, zinc, nickel, and other metals are commonly added so as to attenuate metal colors, such as to lighten pure gold, to create green, purple, white, or rose gold, or to increase strength or scratch-resistance.

Alloying metal produces a variety of useful properties that make the combination ideal for greater heat or electrical conductivity, hardness, resistance to tarnish and corrosion, and strength. Whether used in medical instruments, electronics, aviation, aerospace, tools, or jewelry, pure metals benefit by combining with other metals or non-metal substances. Also, the absence of certain metals can enhance the wearability of jewelry, for example, when nickel is eliminated from the gold, silver, or steel alloys, the wearer can avoid metal hypersensitivity – the skin reaction that results from the presence of an ingredient that can cause irritation such as a rash, blisters, or skin discoloration at the point of contact.

There are almost as many alloys as there are uses for metal, and the percentage of the added ingredients can augment the usability of a metal for innumerable specific purposes, not the least of which is to enhance the beauty of a piece of jewelry. Now, that takes the cake!

Sparkle on!

Laura